Draught Excluder Blog

Archive for the ‘draught excluders’ Category

From fitting draught excluders to buying energy saving lightbulbs, follow Moneywise TV’s simple ways to cut down your energy usage – and bills – in the home.

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Technorati Tags: bills, cut, efficiency, energy, money, on, save, usage

http://www.MicrochipCatFlaps.co.uk Take a sneak preview at the new Pet Porte Smart Flap available to pre-order now. Ships between 15th and 30th June. Limited stocks will be available at launch. New features include circular 210mm diameter hole, draught excluders, improved lock position, and optional internal sensor porch so that you can now not only keep 100% of other cats out but you can let some of your cats out and keep other cats in – perfect if you own a mix of moggies and pedigree cats!

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Technorati Tags: animal access, gadget, innovation, invention, james winsoar, june 2009, microchip cat flaps, new, pet porte, products, rfid, smart flap, unique

snailsakkvideohttp://gdata.youtube.com/feeds/api/users/snailsakkvideoHowtosnail sakk, mail catcher, mail slot basket, letter box, mail slots, insulated mail slot, mail pouch, mail bag, letter catcher, gifts under $50, gifts for the elderly, gifts for the disabled, housewarming gifts, house warming giftsSnail Sakk® Mail Catcher: DRAUGHT EXCLUDERS

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Technorati Tags: gifts for the disabled, gifts for the elderly, gifts under , house warming gifts, housewarming gifts, insulated mail slot, letter box, letter catcher, mail bag, mail catcher, mail pouch, mail slot basket, mail slots, snail sakk

For science homework we have been asked which is the most effective out of the following (put from most cost effective to least cost effective)
1. double glazing
2. loft insulation
3. cavity wall
4. draught excluders
5. floor insulation

It would be really good if you could give me an answer by tomorrow! thanks

Heat rises, so loft insulation would be high on the "effective" list, but does have a cost.
Cavity wall and double glazing is introducing a pocket of dead space to act as an insulator (without insulation); window replacement (double-glazing) is much more expensive than cavity wall.
Draft excluders (or weather-stripping) prevent the exchange of inside/outside air around doors/windows. They are fairly cheap and quite effective; can be extremely effective if air leaks are bad. Floor insulation provides the least benefit, and carries the same cost as loft insulation.

My order would be:

Draft Excluders
Loft Insulation
Cavity Wall
Double Glazing
Floor Insulation

Often used in the food industry draught excluder doors offer a simple and reliable soultion.

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Technorati Tags: Draught Excluder Doors, Novo Speed

N.B. Ive just build another one-May 2010..I think much better…Its a three parter with sound samples..part 2 and the main build is here..

I decided to build this after trying all amp simulation and being left with a niggling feeling that I was underdoing my guitar playing by not going all-analogue, which is the holy-grail of guitar tone

The design is my own ,drawing on other projects I had seen

Take 7 pieces of dense wood (I used 1 inch thick mdf) of dimensions:
15(inch)x15 (x3)
15×36 (x2)
17×36 (x2)

Cut out hole for speaker and mounting screws(u have to do measurements once u get your speaker through..Im using a Celestion G12T-75 as favoured by Yngwie Malmsteen-my favourite guitarist ever)..I used a compass and ruler etc:

Also I put brackets on centre speaker wood section to aid stability ..cutting the drill holes now is very good idea before creating the box

Now wood glue box together:

drying times lengthy..e.g. I left mine 48hours..
and voila!(

seal with a silicone sealant..make lower box airtight(drying time was about I decided 48hours)

put on draught excluder to make lid airtight:

put on brackets:

mount speaker and foam..The foam I then used to acoustically treat the box was basically 2 inches thick ultimately..(I got egg box foam but I fitted two together to make a slab..much easier to line the box with..):I got 15×15 tiles of foam which fitted box just swell!this was all preplanned!

At this point I stuck a last piece of foam to lid to complete the foam cell but Its difficult to push down as the foam grips other foam it touches so I made a piece that I manually place into the box to complete the foam cell before closing

Now for the wiring and mic placement:

Drill holes and feed through wires and then reattach connectors where needed

Next I use a 6 inch gooseneck mic stand which has a base u can screw to the base of the box:I screw the clip of my sm57 onto the top to complete the stand..

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Technorati Tags: amplifier, box, grendel, hotplate, iso, isolation, miking, palmer, pod, randall, speaker, thd, transducer, x3, xt

Hi I have just bought a John Lewis Mini Sewing Machine (essentially its a Janome Mini) its my first sewing machine, i used to use a friends but now i’ve moved away and had to buy my own.

does any one have any advice on what type of material / cotton i can use in this machine? i’ve only used a normal size machine before and i dont want to break this one before i’ve even started making half the things i want to make.

thanks in advanced.

any other advice welcome, i will only be using the machine to make things like cushion covers a draft excluder adn other small items.
the manual suggests 11 (65) or 14 (90) needles

If it’s the Janome mini, it will use standard "dressmaker weight thread", just like the bigger machines. I’m doubtful about using it long and hard on something that’s a heavy fabric (like one of the denims that can stand up in the corner by itself), but if the needle goes through without the stalling sound you hear when a machine is working too hard, it should be fine. What sizes of needle does the manual say it accepts? If they’re talking about 16/100, it should handle at least a couple of layers of heavy denim or light upholstery.

I doubt this is going to be a machine for every day hard use, but for occasional light projects like you suggest, it should be fine.

I have purchased a hollow, rubber-like plastic draft excluder that I want to use around the lip of a lidded box to keep the lid from rattling and, hopefully, keep out water. Although the draft excluder has a clip-like lip the rim of the box has no feature that allows that any purchase, thus I decided on adhesive.

At first I tried a thin superglue that I happened to have lying around but this did nothing more than leave a crystaline residue. Today I tried "No More Nails" in the hope that its purported "instant grab" would do the trick, however after several minutes constant pressure the stuff was still liquid and had had no apparent benefit.

So, I decided I’d ask here. What would be the best adhesive/glue for the (probably PVC, I think) plastic draft excluder and a painted metal box?

Hi, firstly No More Nails needs at least one of the surfaces it is adhering to to be porous and neither of yours are so that’s why that did not work. There is one glue that sticks anything and everything. You can get ‘Araldite’ from B&Q and probably a few other DIY stores. Make sure you get the right one though as there a few. Ask in the store when you get there but as a guide you are looking for a blister pack that contains a syringe which is segregated into two parts. This is how the glue comes. Basically you need to mix it by hand with the implements supplied with it and then smear it over both surfaces. Do it quickly as it does part set quite quickly. Make sure you follow the instructions to the letter and leave the glue to cure properly for at least 12-24 hours. Good luck!!

I rent a flat and the windows are so drafty. I saw thermal blackout blinds would they help? Any pointers on cheap draught excluders for all around the window not just the bottom.

You can buy plastic sheeting that is designed to go over the windows. You attach it to the window moldings with double sided tape. Here’s the really cool part, if you heat it with a hairdyer it tightens itself like a drum – so there are no ripples in the plastic.

I used to use the stuff every year in my old apartment… works great and it’s cheap.

http://www.acehardware.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2627449&cp=

We live in a terrace house with 2 feet of insulation in the loft, double-glazing, thick curtains, draught excluders everywhere, and the heating as high as we can afford. So why is it colder in the house than outside? I go to my mate’s houses and they are always nice and warm what am I doing wrong?
there are no windows open and we have every type of insulation you can get

How old is the house? It may be as simple as drafts. I would invest in a case of silicon caulk, and polyurethane spray foam. use a lit candle to detect where the drafts may be, and seal the cracks. (caulk for 1/8" &under, foam for anything over)